Before and After Sunday Afternoon

Citation

Before and After Sunday Afternoon – Reflections on the Port Arthur Massacre, Peter MacFie Island Magazine,Issue 67, Winter 1996, 95-102.

Outline

The massacre at the Port Arthur Historic Site came as a devastating shock to a small community, small island and close-knit continent. As word spread on a balmy autumn afternoon, collective shock set in. An ex-Sydneysider friend commented upon how personally Tasmanians have taken the Port Arthur tragedy. On the following days, Hobart and the surrounding towns and suburbs were hushed; everyone knew what their neighbours near and far were facing. A friend recalled how he stood on the steps of an eastern-shore house looking across the Derwent River toward Hobart and Mt Wellington, the morning of the church service. H e said he could ‘feel in the air’ a communal grief being shared across the river and suburbs. Friends reported broken sleep and nightmares; others phoned from interstate and overseas.

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Excerpt

Before and after Sunday

The massacre at the Port Arthur Historic Site came as a devastating shock to a small community, small island and close-knit continent. As word spread on a balmy autumn afternoon, collective shock set in. An ex-Sydneysider friend commented upon how personally Tasmanians have taken the Port Arthur tragedy. On the following days, Hobart and the surrounding towns and suburbs were hushed; everyone knew what their neighbours near and far were facing. A friend recalled how he stood on the steps of an eastern-shore house looking across the Derwent River toward Hobart and Mt Wellington, the morning of the church service. He said he could ‘feel in the air’ a communal grief being shared across the river and suburbs. Friends reported broken sleep and nightmares; others phoned from interstate and overseas.

Lax gun laws aside, some have queried if the gunman’s choice of the former convict station as the stage for his crime is such a surprise? Just as the bushfires of 1897 were  considered by some to have been divine retribution, the 1996 massacre carries strong under and overtones of a similar ‘revenge’ for the misuse of a sacred place.

A loss of innocence some have said, but years before, others lost their innocence at Port Arthur. The allure, the enticement of Port Arthur is the contrast between the beauty of the setting and the barbarity of its use. Political prisoner William Smith O’Brien noted the irony in 1847: a village laid out to punish and reform, with its own hierarchy and services, its own weaponry. As at the site, suppressed tension and division have been the norm in Tasmanian history, not the twee charm of tourism advertisements.

Spending three days on the Peninsula seemed a small gesture. Friends whom I’d worked with at the site for over seven years exchanged hugs and shared tears and endless cups of tea while I listened. On Friday May 3rd, the Peninsula community held a service in the old Port Arthur church. A makeshift altar in the Gothic window lay between those inside and those on the lawn behind. Healing words were spoken as the mid-afternoon sun glowed on the sandstone walls and spires. The plaintive ‘Abide With Me’ was sung by several hundred unsteady voices; a piper whirled ‘Amazing Grace’. Children from Nubeena school each brought a red rose for the Warden to lay down as the thirty-five victims’ names were read out. The names went on and on, and I wanted the list to stop, but no. Outside the church, people cried unashamedly.

Funerals for officers and paupers now buried on the Isle of the Dead were held here, and coffins carried down the oak avenue to the water’s edge. We, also, walked down the avenue and garden to lay flowers on the steps of the Broad Arrow Cafe. Staff had derisively dubbed it ‘Poison Arrow’. Many times in the 1980s w e had grabbed lunch in the cheap cafeteria, musing over what Port Arthur meant to ourselves and visitors. Now all had to think again.

A tourist filming near the massacre later commented, ‘It’s quite feasible the gun shots were part of the show.’ But which show? The Ghost Tours or the military’s annual ‘Beating Retreat’, which ends with cannon fire and fireworks climaxing the 1812 Overture? Port Arthur was a giant backdrop.

Before Sunday, Port Arthur was again being upgraded, made more palatable, more attractive, with restored officers’ gardens, and hot bread and recitals on the Broadwood from the Commandant’s kitchen and parlour. Before Sunday, visitors to the prison were confused by the historical representation of the past in Port Arthur’s outdoor museums. Was it re-created history such as at Sovereign Hill or old Sydney Town? The gentility of the Commandant’s and Doctor’s houses with their restored gardens contrasted with the lunacy of the Model Prison and Asylum.

It was the 1897 fires that changed Port Arthur forever, ‘freezing’ the place in a time warp. The old penal colony was about to become a spa for turn-of-the century tourists. The Reverend Woolnough was converting the Model Prison into an up-market hotel with cells for accommodation and a billiard room in the prison chapel. Once more, Port Arthur was to become ‘Entertainment’, not a place for reflection, education, family history or the discussion of prison reform or social issues, nor for contemplating what is valuable in life, in our cultural inheritance. The new ‘fire’, some would argue, has again blasted the dross from the new attempt to reinvent Port Arthur, making us reassess what we value and hold dear and unnegotiable.

On a rainy winter’s day, or a late summer evening – despite the 1897 bushfires, twentieth-century neglect and more recent manicure – the simmering violence of old Port Arthur still shows beneath its garden setting. The lawns which were once vegetable gardens, residences or workshops cover the past like grass on a battlefield. Hard to believe that Port Arthur was, as Lieutenant-Governor Arthur wanted, ‘a place of misery’. Hard, until Sunday April 28th.

End of Excerpt

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Indexed subjects

Anglicans

Arthur, Lieut. Gov. George

bagpipe music

Beating the Retreat

black market

Booth, Charles O’Hara

Bridges, Roy

Broad Arrow Café

buggery

bushfires

Catholic priests

Church of Christ

Clarke, Marcus

Commandant’s House

convicts

cultural heritage

divided community

divine retribution

Doctor’s House

effect on local population

emancipists

embarrassing facts

employment economics

entertainment

Federal Government funding

firearms at Port Arthur

firefighters as first response

Flanagan, Richard

flogging

For the term of his natural life

Foucault, Michel

fundamentalism

gay community

genealogy

ghost economics

ghost tours

gun laws

Hallowed ground

hated stain

Hay, Peter

Historical Societies

homosexual punishment

humanitarians

hymns

Abide with me

Amazing Grace

Insane Asylum

Isle of the Dead

massacre

memorial church service

Meredith, Louisa Ann (Mrs Charles)

Model Prison

National Trust

Nubeena school students

O’Brien, William Smith

Parks and Wildlife Department

Point Puer boys

Port Arthur

Port Arthur Management Authority

prejudices

Presbyterians

re-created history

religion

revenge

Royal Society

Rundle, Tony

sacred places

sherry parties

silence as punishment

Tasman Council

Tasman Peninsula

Tasmanian history

theme parks

tolerance

tourism

tourist incongruities

tragedy

unemployment

Walker, Thomas (Mick)

Woolnough, Rev. James B.W.

xenophobia

 

Copyright Peter Macfie ©2008, 2018
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